Königlich Württembergische Staats-Eisenbahnen
This the logical conversion after removing the brake platform from a Fleischmann Magic Train box van.
By stretching the chassis approx 13mm this van will have quite a long wheelbase. This conversion may not be a wise choice if you have sharp curves on your layout.
If you have already completed the previous conversion then you have a few spare parts left over. This conversion is a logical way to use these up and have another individual model not in the standard Magic Train range.
This conversion is more complex than the previous one, though the stage of adding windows in the sides is purely optional. If you feel adventurous enough to try a new skill, then add the windows. If not, the stretched van is fine as it is.
Materials you will need:
Tools you will need:
Difficulty rating: Suitable for beginners (version without windows), suitable for those with minimal experience (version with windows).
The chassis and roof need to be lengthened to accommodate the second brake platform. Carve off the roof ribs with a chisel-blade in a modelling knife. File the end of the existing roof and the spare section so that they fit snugly together then glue and leave them to dry. Once dry (overnight), sand the roof smooth with 600 grit wet-n-dry paper.
The Magic Train chassis has truss-rods and a brake reservoir, along with a "tank" of some description. The tank and truss-rods get in the way of the next stage, so remove them. Carefully use a modelling knife to remove the truss-rods, being careful not to dig in to the sides of the frame. The only difficult bit here is where the truss-rod runs alongside the brake cylinder. Just take you time and it will be fine.
The "tank" is a little more difficult. Using a pair of rail-nippers nibble away at the tank until is is almost level with the floor. Then use the chisel-blade in the delling knife to smooth off any remaining plastic so that it is flush.
Firstly remove the metal weight and place to one side - slice the plastic "rivets" off with the modelling knife and lift it off the chassis.
Now place the chassis in the mitre-box and cut through the chassis right next to the brake cylinder.
ReRefit the brake platforms on both end sections of the chassis. Dry-fit them in place on the body and you should find that the section cut out from the other chassis fits neatly in the gap.
In this underside view of the finished vehicle you can see how the 2 sections of the frame and the "filler piece" fit together.
Once you are happy that all is OK, replace the metal weight in the gap in the chassis (secure with some glue like Yoo-Hoo), refit the chassis on the body and run a small amount of liquid polystyrene glue with a small brush along the join between body and chassis. It only takes a very small amount of glue to hold the body in place. The glue shows as "shiny" marks in the picture.
Be careful not to get glue in the coupler mechanism. To be safe, drop some powdered graphite in to the coupler mechanism and keep moving it for a few minutes.
Add the handrails you carved off of the original kitbash on to the corners which didn't have them.
That is about it. If you have been careful you could use the wagon as it is, or you can repaint it before putting it on your layout.
It took approx. 2 hours to do this conversion (without painting), a good introduction to "level 2" kitbashing.
Copyright © John Oxlade, 2009-2010 | Site last updated: 3rd July 2011 | This page last updated 21st April 2009